Laurent Ponsot Clos Saint-Denis Cuvée du Merisier 2021

Laurent Ponsot works this Clos Saint-Denis, a grand cru in Morey-Saint-Denis in the Côte de Nuits and one of the most delicate of the Morey crus. The site sits on limestone with a thin, stony clay topsoil over hard rock, drainage that stresses the vines and concentrates the fruit while the underlying limestone keeps the wine fresh and lifted. Morey grands crus are known for finesse rather than sheer power, and Clos Saint-Denis is the most perfumed of them. The cool 2021 vintage, low in yield, plays to that strength. The wine is aged thirty months in barrel; the long elevage and slow oxygen exchange through the wood settle the tannin and add light savoury spice while leaving the aromatics intact. It pours a pale to medium ruby. The nose offers red cherry, red berries and rose, with a forest-floor and leather depth that builds with air. The palate is fine and silky, with delicate tannin, fresh acidity and a long, mineral, savoury finish. Serve at 16 degrees in a large glass with an hour of air. It suits game birds and roast meats.