Laurent Ponsot Clos de Vougeot Cuvée du Cèdre 2021

Laurent Ponsot bottles this Clos de Vougeot, the largest grand cru in the Côte de Nuits, a single walled vineyard that runs from the higher limestone slopes down towards the heavier clay near the road. The soil shifts across the clos, but Ponsot's parcels draw on the better-drained limestone and gravel that give structure and depth to Pinot Noir, with the cool Burgundian climate and good diurnal range holding acidity and aromatic detail. The 2021 vintage was cool and short, which favours freshness and fragrance. The wine is aged thirty months in oak barrels, a long elevage where slow oxygen exchange through the wood softens the tannin and adds savoury spice while keeping the dark fruit defined. It pours a medium ruby. The nose shows dark cherry, plum and red berries, with forest floor, leather and a light liquorice edge. The palate is fuller and firmer than the lighter Morey crus, with grippy tannin, fresh acidity and a long savoury finish. Serve at 16 to 17 degrees in a large glass with an hour or more of air. It rewards roast and braised meats.