Laurent Ponsot Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Cuvée du Cyprès 2021

Laurent Ponsot makes this Charmes-Chambertin, a grand cru on the lower, gentler slopes of Gevrey-Chambertin in the Côte de Nuits. The site sits on limestone with a deeper, more clay-rich topsoil than the steeper crus above it, which gives Charmes its rounder, more approachable style while the underlying limestone keeps the acidity fresh. The cool continental climate and wide day-to-night swing preserve perfume and lift in the fruit. The 2021 vintage was cool and low-yielding, favouring fragrance over weight. Ageing in barrel allows slow oxygen exchange through the wood to soften the tannin and add gentle spice while keeping the red fruit clear. It pours a medium ruby. The nose leads with red cherry, red berries and rose, with a damp-earth and faint liquorice depth. The palate is supple and elegant, with fine tannin, bright acidity and a long mineral finish; Charmes shows more flesh and charm than the firmer Gevrey grands crus. Serve at 16 degrees in a wide glass with thirty to sixty minutes of air. It suits game, roast birds and mushroom dishes.