Labourdonnais XO Vintage 2010

Labourdonnais distils on Mauritius, where pure cane juice rum is made in the agricole spirit but cannot use the protected French island term. This XO from the 2010 vintage is pressed from fresh sugar cane juice, aged five years in ex bourbon oak and bottled at 41.3%, an island agricole-style aged rum with a continental sense of restraint.

The nose is woody and nutty with a green, vegetal thread, and the palate brings oak, sugar cane, baking spice and dried fruit together with a surprising fullness for the modest strength. Tasters have found apple strudel, vanilla and a grassy depth, a complex and charming character rounded off with tobacco. The finish carries citrus, barrel and a clear agricole snap. A gently aged, characterful cane juice rum that drinks well above its proof and rewards a slow glass.