La Vicalanda Viñas Viejas 2021

Bodegas Bilbaínas, established in Haro in 1901, makes this old vine Tempranillo from vineyards in Rioja Alta, one of the cooler, more Atlantic influenced subzones of Rioja. The Viñas Viejas designation points to old vines, which root deeply, crop low and concentrate the fruit, giving the wine depth and a structured frame. The clay limestone soils of Rioja Alta drain well and hold water in reserve, and the moderate continental climate with cool nights preserves acidity and freshness through ripening. After fermentation the wine ages twelve months in oak barrels, where slow oxygen exchange softens the tannin and adds vanilla, spice and a savoury edge, followed by a further twenty four months in bottle, where the wine knits together and develops tertiary leather and tobacco before release. The colour is deep ruby with garnet at the rim. The nose shows ripe plum, cherry and red berries over vanilla, leather and tobacco. The palate is full and structured, with firm, well integrated tannins, balancing acidity and a long, spiced, savoury finish. Serve at seventeen degrees, decanting an hour ahead. It suits roast and braised red meat and mature cheese.