La Tellería 2024

La Tellería is a single-variety Mencía made by the Vinos Valtuille family winery in D.O. Bierzo, in Castilla y León. The fruit comes mostly from the named Tellería plot on a hillside above Valtuille de Abajo, where clay soils and vines aged over eighty-five years give low yields and concentrated, structured fruit. Old vines like these root deep and ripen steadily, which brings depth and a savoury character that younger plantings rarely match. The harvest is by hand into fifteen-kilo crates, and the bunches pass over a sorting table so that only sound fruit goes into the fermenter. Ageing runs to six months in used French oak, enough to round the tannins and add cedar and gentle smoke while keeping the wine's freshness intact. In the glass it is deep ruby, with a nose of ripe blackberry, wild berry, liquorice and a toasted, balsamic note. The palate is medium to full, with firm but ripe tannin, good acidity and a long, savoury finish marked by the region's slate minerality. Serve at 16 to 17 degrees, decanting half an hour ahead. It suits roast lamb, grilled beef and aged hard cheese.