La Muria 2023

La Muria is one of the most sought-after reds from Raúl Pérez, a winemaker who has done as much as anyone to put Bierzo on the map. It comes from old Mencía vines in this corner of north-western Castilla y Leon, where the climate is a meeting point of Atlantic and continental influences, giving warm days for ripeness and cool nights that hold freshness and aromatic lift. The defining factor is the soil: the steep slopes here are built on slate, known locally as pizarra, which drains hard, stores daytime heat and pushes the old vines to dig deep, concentrating flavour and carrying a mineral, graphite character into the wine. Twelve months in oak barrels rounds the tannin and adds a savoury, smoky frame through slow oxygen exchange, while the moderate alcohol keeps the wine fresh and poised. It pours a deep ruby and offers wild red berries, dark plum and violet over black pepper, liquorice and a smoky, stony minerality. The palate is structured and savoury rather than heavy, with fine tannin, real freshness and a long, graphite-edged finish. Serve at 16 to 17 degrees, decanted, in a large glass. It is a fine match for roast lamb and game.