La Maldita Revolution 2020

La Maldita Revolution is a red from D.O.Ca. Rioja, made by Bodega La Maldita from Garnacha. Once the second most planted variety in Rioja, Garnacha was long pushed aside for higher-yielding grapes, and this wine is a deliberate return to it. Garnacha ripens late and fully, which gives the wine its ripe red fruit, its generous 14.5 per cent alcohol and its rounded texture, while the cooler Rioja sites and old vines hold acidity and add a savoury, herbal edge. The wine is aged twelve months in 500-litre French oak barrels. The larger format means a lower ratio of wood to wine and gentler oxygen exchange than a standard 225-litre barrique, so the oak rounds the tannins and adds a light spice and vanilla while leaving the fruit clear and bright. The colour is bright cherry red. The nose shows wild raspberry and strawberry, ripe cherry and plum over black pepper, dried Mediterranean herbs and a touch of liquorice. The palate is full and warming, with ripe fruit, supple tannins and a spiced, herb-tinged finish. Serve at 16 to 17 degrees. It suits grilled lamb, beef and mushroom dishes.