La Fuga Finca A Xesteira 2019

José Antonio García returned to his family's Galician vineyards to work small, old plots one by one, and Finca A Xesteira is a single-vineyard Albariño from that project. Albariño thrives in Galicia's damp Atlantic climate, where sandy granitic soils drain the frequent rain and the sea air lends the grape its salty edge and firm acidity. This is not the usual bright young style. The wine spends twelve months in oak barrel and then further time in bottle before release, so the fruit has softened and gained a savoury, textured depth. The barrel ageing works through slow oxygen exchange and lees contact rather than heavy toast, building weight while keeping the wine dry and mineral. The 2019 vintage now shows real development. It pours bright gold. The nose is apricot, white peach and citrus peel over a waxy, nutty note, and the palate is broad and dry, with pear, almond and a saline granite grip that runs through a long finish. Serve at 10 to 12 degrees in a white glass.