La Fillaboa 1898 2020

Bodegas Fillaboa is one of the largest and oldest estates in Galicia, farming its own vineyards on the granite soils of D.O. Rías Baixas. The 1898 bottling commemorates the year Albariño first crossed the Atlantic to Cuba, and it is built for depth rather than early drinking. The estate sits inland along the Miño river, where granite subsoils and a cool, wet Atlantic climate give Albariño its high natural acidity and saline character. What sets this wine apart is a very long period on its fine lees, well beyond the usual few months, so autolysis has time to work fully. As the spent yeast cells break down they release mannoproteins and other compounds that build a creamy texture, a savoury, bready depth and greater ageing potential, while the granite driven acidity keeps everything in balance. The wine is deep straw gold and shows fine toast, baked apple, ripe orchard fruit, honey and hazelnut over a saline mineral base. The palate is dry, textured and layered, with ripe fruit, a creamy mid palate from the lees, firm acidity and a long savoury finish. Serve at 11 to 13 degrees in a larger white glass. It suits richer seafood and white meat.