La Biancara SoSan Veneto 2020

La Biancara is the Veneto estate of Angiolino Maule, an early figure in Italy's natural wine movement, who farms organically and works with minimal intervention in the cellar. SoSan is made from Tai Rosso, the local name for Grenache, grown in the hills around Sorio between Vicenza and Verona. The soils here run to volcanic basalt and limestone, which give the wine its mineral lift and savoury depth, while the hillside aspect and the cool air off the pre-Alps hold freshness in a grape that ripens readily to a warming 15 percent. Working naturally means native yeasts and little or no added sulphur, an approach that keeps the fruit vivid and the texture open. The wine ages 18 months in oak, where slow oxygen exchange settles the tannins and adds spice without overt wood. It pours a deep, slightly rustic ruby. The nose shows ripe cherry and raspberry over black pepper, dried herbs and a faint spirituous warmth, with a smoky, earthy edge. The palate is full and savoury, the ripe fruit framed by fine tannins and a stony freshness through a long finish. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees with grilled pork, beef or mushroom dishes.