La Biancara Sassaia Veneto Magnum 2023

La Biancara was founded in 1988 by Angiolino Maule, a pioneer of natural wine in the Veneto in northern Italy and the founder of the VinNatur movement. Sassaia is made from Garganega, the grape behind Soave, grown on volcanic basalt soils in the hills around Gambellara. The dark volcanic rock warms quickly and lends the wine its stony, saline character, while the hillside sites and the cool nights hold the acidity and the delicate aromatics. Farming is organic and the winemaking is low-intervention, with wild-yeast fermentation, no additions and only a small amount of sulphur, so the wine reflects the vintage and the site rather than a house recipe. It ages ten months in oak barrels, which adds texture and a light nutty note while some skin and lees contact gives the palate its savoury grip. The colour is deep straw, in the natural-wine mould. The nose shows green apple, lemon, chamomile and white flowers over a bruised-apple, savoury edge. The palate is dry, textured and saline, with almond and citrus-peel bitterness on a long finish. Alcohol is low at 11.5 percent. Serve at 10 to 12 degrees.