Kracher Beerenauslese Cuvée 2021

Kracher is a family winery in the Seewinkel, a flat patchwork of shallow lakes at the eastern edge of Burgenland in Austria. The proximity of Lake Neusiedl is decisive: morning mists rising off the warm water settle in the vineyards through autumn, encouraging the fungus Botrytis cinerea to take hold. This noble rot perforates the grape skins and draws out water, concentrating sugar, acid and flavour in the shrivelled berries. The Beerenauslese Cuvée blends Welschriesling, which holds firm acidity, with Chardonnay for breadth, both picked late in successive passes through the rows. Fermentation stops naturally with abundant residual sugar, the high sugar load checking the yeast before all of it converts to alcohol, which is why the wine sits near 12 percent. The colour is deep gold. The nose carries apricot, honey, white peach and a marmalade edge that botrytis brings. The palate is sweet and viscous but lifted by Welschriesling acidity, so it finishes clean rather than cloying. Serve well chilled around 8 to 10 degrees in a small glass.