Karukera Select Casks 2009

Karukera, relaunched in 2002 and known for single-cane bottlings, makes this Select Casks from fresh sugarcane juice under Guadeloupe's IGP. It is a seven year aged agricole bottled at a gentle 45 percent, pitched at comfortable rather than commanding drinking.

Column distilled and matured in ex-bourbon wood, it opens on young oak spice, vanilla and grass, then turns toward honeyed cane, citrus and a streak of dark chocolate on the palate. The finish is earthy, herbal and lightly dry. The reduced strength keeps everything soft and approachable, with subtle fruit and a touch of bitter almond filling out the middle. A relaxed sipper for those who like their aged agricole understated and oak inflected rather than loud.