Karamolegos Vinsanto 2010

Artemis Karamolegos works on Santorini, the volcanic Greek island where Assyrtiko is the signature grape. This Vinsanto follows the island's oldest tradition: the grapes, mainly Assyrtiko with Aidani, are sun-dried after harvest so the water evaporates and the sugars and acids concentrate in shrivelled berries. Santorini's soils are volcanic ash and pumice with almost no clay, which drains hard and stresses the vines, while constant sun and wind drive the drying. The result is a base of intense, high-acid juice that ferments slowly to leave considerable residual sugar. This 2010 then spends twelve years in French oak, a long oxidative ageing that develops the deep colour and the cooked, nutty character the style is known for, as the wine slowly takes on oxygen through the barrel. The colour is deep amber to brown. The nose is dried fig, walnut, coffee and chocolate melted into caramel, with raisin and date behind. The palate is dense and sweet, but the island's natural acidity keeps it from turning heavy, carrying a long caramelised finish. Serve lightly chilled, around 12 degrees, in a small glass.