Judith Beck Bambule! Welschriesling 2022

Judith Beck farms biodynamically in Gols, in the Burgenland region of eastern Austria, where Welschriesling is normally turned into light, dry whites. Bambule! takes the grape in a different direction as an orange wine. The fruit is fermented on its skins, a long maceration that extracts tannin, colour and phenolic depth and turns the wine bright amber, brilliant yet hazy from the lack of fining and filtration. It then matures ten months in clay amphorae, where the porous walls allow slow oxygen exchange that softens the tannin and develops nutty, dried-fruit complexity without any oak flavour. Made naturally with native yeasts and minimal intervention, the wine is savoury and structured. The colour is hazy amber. The nose is forward, showing dried apricot, orange marmalade and dried herbs, with beeswax and a honeyed edge. The palate is dry and firm, the skin tannin giving real grip, the finish long and savoury, closing on almond and citrus peel. The structure asks for the table. Serve at 12 to 14 degrees in a wide glass, decanting briefly if you like. It suits roast pork, chicken and mushroom dishes.