Jean-Yves Péron Le Pas de l’Ours 2019

Jean-Yves Péron is a natural winegrower who founded his estate in Savoy in 2004, working high-altitude vineyards in the French Alps. Le Pas de l'Ours is a single-variety Mondeuse, the region's traditional black grape, from organically farmed old vines of 115 to 130 years planted on mica and shale, soils that drain well and lend the wine a mineral, stony character. The altitude and cold alpine nights slow ripening and preserve acidity, giving a red that is savoury and structured rather than plush. The farming is done without herbicides or chemical fertilisers, and the wine is made naturally with native yeasts and aged in wood. This low-intervention approach and the extended time on skins give a wine of texture and grip, with the barrel adding gentle spice through slow oxygen exchange. Expect a deep, slightly rustic ruby. The nose is savoury and peppery, with red berries, sour cherry, crushed herbs, woodsmoke and a wild, earthy edge. The palate is firm and mineral, the tannins present, the acidity high and alpine, running to a long, spiced finish. Serve at 16 degrees and decant. It suits roast beef, game and mountain cheeses.