Jean-Yves Péron Côtillon des Dames 2023

Jean-Yves Péron Côtillon des Dames comes from the Savoyard vigneron Jean-Yves Péron, who works two hectares of micro-plots at the confluence of the Arly and Isère rivers near Conflans, in the French Alps. The terraced vines sit on steep slopes at around 600 metres altitude, on soils of shale and limestone, where the high elevation and cool mountain air give the wine its low 11 per cent alcohol, bright acidity and herbal lift. Péron farms without chemical inputs and makes the wine naturally, with no added sulphites. The native alpine grapes Jacquère and Altesse are given skin contact, which adds light grip and texture, but the maceration and the cool, high-altitude fruit keep the wine fresh and delicate rather than heavily structured or oxidative. The colour is light amber. The nose shows green apple, pear, citrus peel and white flowers, with dried alpine herbs and an earthy edge. The palate is light, dry and textured, the mountain acidity framing the orchard fruit and gentle skin grip through a fresh, herbal finish. Serve at 10 to 12 degrees.