Japan Import System Rhum J.M 2003

Bottled by Japan Import System, this single cask Rhum J.M was distilled at the far-north Mt Pelee estate, one of Martinique's most prized AOC agricole houses. The spirit is fresh-pressed sugar-cane juice from a column still, matured seven years in ex-bourbon oak at origin and bottled unsweetened at cask strength.

Tropical ageing makes a seven-year agricole show more maturity than its years suggest, and this one drinks with extra power and a dry, herbal edge. Orchard fruit leads, pear and apple with a mirabelle-plum lift, moving into woody, leathery depth on the palate. The finish runs dry through hay, leather, nutmeg and spice. At 52.4% it is firmer and more characterful than the softer standard J.M bottlings, an atypical and spirited single cask for those who want their agricole with grip and a savoury backbone.