Jaboulet Hermitage Maison Bleue 2022

Hermitage is one of the great red appellations of the northern Rhône, a single steep hill above Tain on the river's left bank, and Maison Bleue is Domaine Paul Jaboulet Aîné's Hermitage from organically farmed Syrah. The famous granite hill faces south, soaking up sun on its decomposed-granite and stony soils, which drain freely and force the vines deep while ripening Syrah to full power. The continental climate, with hot days and cooler nights, keeps acidity and aromatic detail intact, so the wines combine concentration with freshness. Syrah here is at its most structured, giving dense dark fruit, the black pepper that comes from rotundone in the skins, and a stony, savoury depth drawn from the granite. Barrel ageing rounds the formidable tannins slowly through measured oxygen exchange and layers smoke, liquorice and leather over the fruit. The wine pours deep and dark, with a nose of ripe black raspberry, plum and smoky earth, a palate that is full, powerful and savoury, and a long finish on firm tannins. Serve at 17 to 18 degrees and decant well ahead, as this wine rewards air and cellaring. It suits roast and grilled red meat, lamb and game.