Iturregi 2023

Iturregi looks out over the Getaria lighthouse and the Atlantic in the Basque Country, and its wine comes from Hondarrabi Zuri, the grape behind Txakoli. This is coastal, high rainfall country, where vines trained high on pergolas catch the wind off the sea, and the maritime climate with cool nights gives Txakoli its trademark searing acidity and saline, briny character. Most Txakoli is made in tank and drunk young and spritzy, but this bottling is aged eight months in barrel, which broadens the wine and adds a subtle savoury texture through lees contact and slow oxygen exchange, while used wood keeps oak flavour restrained. The extra time trades a little of the youthful fizz for depth. The colour is pale lemon with green tints. The nose shows green apple, lemon and white flowers, with a distinct sea salt note. The palate is dry, taut and mineral, the green fruit driven by high acidity to a briny, lingering finish. Serve well chilled at 8 to 10 degrees. It is a natural match for grilled white fish, shellfish, oily fish such as anchovies, and fresh green salads.