Hatzidakis Santorini Familia 2025

Hatzidakis was founded in 1996 when the late Haridimos Hatzidakis set out to recover abandoned vineyards in the village of Pyrgos on Santorini, and the estate is now run by his daughter Stella under respectful farming. This is their Santorini, made from Assyrtiko, the island's great white grape, grown on the volcanic soils that define the appellation. Those soils are ash, pumice and lava with no clay, which the phylloxera louse cannot survive, so many vines here are very old and ungrafted. The vines are trained low in woven baskets to shelter the fruit from the fierce Aegean wind and sun, and this poor volcanic ground gives Assyrtiko its searing acidity and salinity even at high ripeness. The wine is aged on its lees, which broadens the texture and adds depth while keeping the mineral cut. At 14.3 per cent it is powerful but stays taut and dry. The colour is pale lemon. The nose is intense, with lemon, citrus peel and green apple over white flowers and a smoky, flinty note. The palate is bone-dry and saline, with real drive and a long volcanic finish. Serve chilled at 9 to 11 degrees.