Gut Oggau Eugenie 2023

Gut Oggau is the biodynamic Burgenland estate of Stephanie and Eduard Tscheppe, near Lake Neusiedl in eastern Austria, where every wine is given a character on its label. Eugenie is made from PIWI grapes, disease-resistant varieties suited to organic and biodynamic farming, grown on the gravel, sand and limestone soils around the lake. The moderating influence of the shallow lake and the free-draining ground give the wine both ripeness and freshness. It is farmed and vinified naturally, with wild-yeast fermentation and ten months in barrel, where lees contact and slow oxygen exchange add texture and a savoury depth rather than obvious oak. The result is a golden-hued white with real presence. The nose shows fresh apple and ripe peach with chamomile, dried herbs and a waxy, honeyed note. The palate is dry and textured, medium bodied, the orchard fruit carried by a gentle grip and a fresh acid line into a long, savoury finish. The natural winemaking gives it a slightly wild, herbal character that sets it apart from a conventional white. Serve at 10 to 12 degrees.