Gut Oggau Emmeram 2023

Gut Oggau, the biodynamic Burgenland estate run by Stephanie and Eduard Tscheppe, makes Emmeram from Gewurztraminer, the most aromatic wine in its family of labels. The vines grow on gravel, sand and limestone near the shallow Lake Neusiedl in eastern Austria, where the lake tempers the climate and the free-draining soils keep the naturally low-acid Gewurztraminer in balance. Farming and winemaking are natural, with wild-yeast fermentation, and the wine is barrel-fermented and aged twelve months in wood, which gives structure and a savoury, textured edge while integrating the grape's exuberant perfume. Gewurztraminer is unmistakable, all rose petal, lychee and warm spice, and here the natural approach reins in the exotic fruit with a drier, more grounded profile. The colour is deep and golden. The nose leads with rose and white peach over ginger, citrus peel and honey. The palate is dry to off-dry and full bodied, the aromatic fruit given grip and length by the barrel work and a firm structure. This is a wine with real presence and a long, spiced finish. Serve at 11 to 13 degrees.