Gut Oggau Bertholdi 2023

Gut Oggau Bertholdi is the top red from Gut Oggau, a biodynamic estate in the Burgenland region of Austria run by Stephanie and Eduard Tscheppe, who revived an abandoned 18 hectare property in 2007. It is made from Blaufränkisch, the native grape that gives structured, peppery, mineral reds in this part of central Europe. The vineyards lie near the Neusiedlersee, whose large shallow lake moderates temperatures and extends the ripening season, while the limestone and slate soils lend the wine its firm acidity and stony backbone. Farming is biodynamic and the wine is made as a natural wine, fermented with native yeasts and bottled with minimal intervention and little or no added sulphur, which keeps the fruit transparent to its site. Barrel ageing softens the tannins and adds savoury depth without dominating the fruit. The result is a medium to full bodied red with dark cherry and blackberry, cracked pepper, dried herbs and a clear earthy, mineral character on bright acidity and firm tannins. The finish is long and savoury. Serve at 15 to 17C in a large glass. It suits game, pork and earthy dishes.