González Byass Palo Cortado Leonor

González Byass, in Jerez since 1835, makes this Palo Cortado from Palomino grown on albariza chalk. Palo Cortado is the rarest of the Sherry styles, a wine that begins life under flor like a Fino or Amontillado but, during ageing, loses its protective veil and turns to oxidative ageing like an Oloroso. The result sits between the two: it keeps the fine, delicate aromatics of biological ageing while gaining the body and depth of oxidative development. This Leonor spends twelve years in a solera system, where slow exposure to air through the cask concentrates the wine and builds its nutty, spiced complexity as it deepens to a glowing amber. Like all true Palo Cortado it is fully dry, with no added sweetness. It pours bright chestnut amber, with a nose that recalls an Amontillado, showing sweet spice, citrus and bitter orange. On the palate it broadens into Oloroso territory, full and savoury with walnut, clove and a long dry finish lifted by a fine thread of acidity. Serve at cool room temperature in a small glass, with hard cheese, roast game, mushrooms or a bowl of nuts.