Glencadam 25 Years Old 1996

This official Glencadam, a 25 year old, from 1996, cask 9746, at 58.7%, 307 bottles in all. Glencadam is a Highland single malt, revived under Angus Dundee ownership in 2003. Its stills carry lyne arms angled upward, raising the reflux for a lighter, fruitier spirit. In the 1890s the Glasgow blender Gilmour Thomson used its malt in a Royal blend said to be favoured by Edward VII.

It was run slowly off the spirit still, shaping a gentle, fragrant malt with a tropical lift. A Sauternes cask held it, drawing the light spirit on over the years. Through the evaporative decades the esters fold into mango, beeswax and a creamy honey. Vanillin and oak lactones from the wood lend vanilla and a soft coconut over the fruit. Active wood frames the fruit without ever crowding the light Highland spirit. Maturation runs slow and even in the cool, racked Highland warehouses.

Bottled at a cask strength 58.7%, it is concentrated. A light orchard fruit and a green herb, with honeyed apricot and a candied citrus from the cask. The mouthfeel is light and creamy, carrying the fruit. The close is light and clean, fruit over a gentle oak. This is a fruity, easy going Highland single malt.