Glenburgie 46 Years Old 1964 (G&M)

Chosen by Gordon and MacPhail, the Elgin grocer laying down casks on South Street since 1895, this a 46 year old Glenburgie, distilled in 1964, at 43%. Glenburgie is a Speyside single malt from near Alves, founded in 1810 as Kilnflat. Most of its make goes quietly to blends; single malt Glenburgie is rare, and largely from independents.

It was run slowly off the spirit still, for the light, fruity make the Ballantine's blenders prized. A refill bourbon hogshead held it, keeping the fresh, fruity character to the fore. At a great, fragile age oxidation rules, sotolon lending honey and dried fig as beeswax and a waxy note linger. First fill wood drives the maturation, the cask clear in the spirit. Years in oak deepen the spirit to old gold, the body growing rounder and waxier with time. Active wood frames the fruit without ever crowding the Speyside spirit. Long ageing turns the fresh apple towards beeswax, tropical fruit and a gentle spice.

At 43% it is bright, waxy and soft. Apple, pear and a soft honey, over a gentle, creamy oak. It is soft and gently waxy, the light spirit shining through. The finish is light, fruity and clean. This is a light, fruity Speyside single malt.