Glenburgie 15 Years Old 2008 (Signatory)

Signatory Vintage bottled this Glenburgie, a 15 year old, distilled in 2008, at 57.1%. Glenburgie is a Speyside single malt, long the fruity heart of the Ballantine's blend. It was rebuilt in 1881 by Charles Chree Doig, the architect behind so many Speyside stillhouses. The old distillery was demolished and rebuilt in 2004, only the little stone office left standing. Its water is drawn from a local spring near the distillery. Most of its make goes quietly to blends; single malt Glenburgie is rare, and largely from independents.

It was drawn from a long fermentation, shaping a fine, clean malt with a floral lift. An Oloroso cask held it, drawing the light spirit on over the years. Through oxidative maturity the esters concentrate, the apple and pear turning to a waxy honey and soft tropical fruit. Built for the blender's art, the make ages with quiet grace as a single malt. Maturation runs slow and even in the cool Speyside warehouses.

At a hearty 57.1% it carries real weight. Baked apple, grass and a light honey, with dried fruit, fig and walnut from the cask. Pear, grass and a creamy oak fill the middle. The close is light and clean, fruit over a gentle oak. This is a light, fruity Speyside single malt.