Gaja Barbaresco Sorì Tildin 2015

Sori Tildin is one of the three named vineyards behind Gaja's reputation in Barbaresco, lying on a hill at 270 metres in the Langhe hills of Piedmont. The soils here are lean and compact, the kind of low-vigour, calcareous ground that keeps yields small and gives Nebbiolo its concentration, perfume and firm acid-and-tannin backbone. The fruit is harvested entirely by hand with only the best bunches kept, then fermented over about three weeks before a double ageing in wood, which softens the variety's grip and integrates the tannins through slow, controlled oxygen exchange. With a decade behind it, the 2015 is garnet and showing developed complexity. The nose brings balsamic and sweet spice over red cherry and dried rose, with tar, leather and a touch of tobacco. The palate is full bodied and round, the freshness still present and the tannins now well integrated into a long, savoury finish. It is drinking in a fine window and holds plenty in reserve. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees, decanted ahead, in a large Burgundy glass. It suits braised beef, game and earthy mushroom dishes.