Fulcro Nas Dunas 2023

Fulcro is a small Galician producer led by Manuel Moldes, first helped by Rodri Méndez of Forjas del Salnés, making around thirty thousand bottles a year in the Val do Salnés, the coolest and most Atlantic corner of Rías Baixas. Albariño here grows close to the sea on granite soils, with high rainfall and cool ocean air keeping the grape's naturally high acidity intact and lending a saline edge. Nas Dunas spends twelve months in barrel, unusual for the region: neutral wood and lees contact broaden the texture and add a savoury depth, while slow oxygen exchange rounds the wine, yet the fruit and salinity stay in front rather than any oak flavour. The wine is pale gold in the glass, with white peach, apricot and lemon on the nose, lifted by white flowers and a light almond note. The palate is dry and taut, carrying stonefruit and citrus through a briny, mineral finish. Serve at 9 to 11 degrees in a standard white glass.