Fulcro A Cesteira 2023

Fulcro is the Rias Baixas project of Manuel Moles, who left banking in 2009 to make terroir-focused wines in the Salnes valley, the coolest and most Atlantic subzone of the appellation. Albarino here grows close to the sea on granite-derived sandy soils, and the maritime climate of high humidity, sea breezes and moderate temperatures gives wines their trademark salinity and bright acidity. A Cesteira spends eight months in oak barrel, which sets it apart from the many stainless-steel Albarinos of the region. Barrel ageing on the fine lees releases mannoproteins that add weight and a subtle creaminess without masking the fruit, giving a rounder, more textured style while keeping the grape's coastal freshness. The wine is pale gold. The nose leads with lime and green apple, with mint and a saline, mineral edge. The palate is balanced and fine, the oak lending body rather than obvious wood, and the finish is long and stony. Serve at 9 to 11 degrees. This is Albarino built for the table as much as the terrace.