Frontonio La Loma & Los Santos 2023

Frontonio La Loma & Los Santos is an old vine white from Bodegas Frontonio in Aragón, a blend of Garnacha Blanca and Macabeo from the La Loma and Los Santos plots that give it its name. The vineyards lie between 480 and 610 metres, on clay, limestone and slate soils, off vines more than forty five years old. That altitude brings cold nights and a wide day to night swing that slows ripening and holds acidity, while the poor, stony ground keeps yields low and concentrates the fruit. The grapes are hand harvested, and the wine is aged for thirteen months in large 500 litre French oak barrels. The bigger format means a lower ratio of wood to wine, so the oak shapes texture and allows a slow oxygen exchange without dominating, while lees contact adds weight and a fine grip. The wine is deep straw gold. The nose shows pear and apricot over fennel, almond and white flowers. The palate is broad and mineral, with beeswax and a subtle vanilla lift through a long, savoury finish. Serve it at 11 to 13 degrees in a large glass.