Foillard Fleurie 2022

Domaine Jean Foillard is one of the original figures in Beaujolais natural wine, and this Fleurie comes from three small parcels of old Gamay vines on granite-derived sandy soils, around two hectares in total. The decomposed granite is light and free draining, which keeps yields modest and gives Gamay its perfume and a slim mineral frame rather than weight. Fruit is picked by hand to keep the bunches whole, and Foillard works without intervention in the cellar, fermenting with native yeasts and ageing the wine in used wood so the oak adds structure without flavour. The result is a Cru Beaujolais of real freshness and detail. It is light to medium bodied and bright ruby in the glass, with aromas of raspberry, red cherry and violet over a savoury, slightly earthy base. The palate is juicy and finely tannic, the granite showing as a cool, stony lift that carries the red fruit through a clean finish. Serve it lightly chilled, around 14 degrees, in a Burgundy glass. It suits charcuterie, roast pork and duck, and has the freshness to handle mushroom dishes.