Fino Capataz

Fino Capataz is a Fino from Alvear, the long-established house of the D.O. Montilla-Moriles in Córdoba, inland from Jerez. The defining local difference is the grape. Where Jerez Fino is Palomino, Montilla works with Pedro Ximénez grown on the chalky albero soils of the Sierra de Montilla, a white limestone earth close in character to Jerez albariza. The very warm continental climate ripens Pedro Ximénez to high natural sugar, so the wines often reach around 15 percent without fortification and the Finos can be made unfortified. After fermentation the wine ages 12 years under a cap of flor in the criaderas and soleras system, a long biological ageing during which the yeast shields it from oxygen, keeps it pale and builds saline, bready, bitter-almond depth. The result is a savoury, bone-dry Fino with green apple, almond and a yeasty, saline core, more concentrated than its years might suggest. Serve well chilled at 7 to 9 degrees in a white-wine glass, freshly opened. It works as an aperitif and with seafood, fried fish and hard cheeses.