Feudi di San Gregorio Patrimo 2017

Feudi di San Gregorio produces Patrimo in Irpinia, an inland part of Campania known for its volcanic soils and wide range of microclimates. Founded in 1986 and based at Sorbo Serpico in the province of Avellino, the winery works this single grape, Merlot, in a setting far from its native Bordeaux. The volcanic subsoils and the marked day to night temperature swing of these hills slow ripening and hold acidity, so the fruit arrives concentrated but fresh rather than soft. Eighteen months in French oak barrels followed by ten months in bottle round the tannins through slow oxygen exchange across the staves, and the barrel contributes vanilla, clove and a cedar edge while polymerising the phenolics into a finer grain. The wine is deep ruby moving to garnet. The nose shows black fruit preserves, dark chocolate and sweet baking spice over a savoury mineral base. The palate is full and structured, with ripe plum and cherry, firm but polished tannins and a long finish marked by tobacco and oak. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees and decant an hour ahead. It suits roast beef, lamb and aged hard cheeses.