Fattoria Nannì Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico Origini Riserva 2023

Fattoria Nannì is the work of Roberto Cantori, who founded the estate at Arsicci, near Apiro in the Marche, and refused to pull up the old vines planted in 1967. Those old vines give this organic Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva its depth. The vineyards sit on limestone and clay in the hills inland from the Adriatic, where cool nights and mountain breezes hold the acidity that defines Verdicchio and lend it a saline, stony edge. The wine is aged twelve months on its fine lees and a further six months in bottle before release. Lees ageing is central here: as the spent yeast cells break down they release mannoproteins that build a creamy weight and round the palate, while protecting the fresh fruit from oxidation without any oak. The colour is straw-yellow, the nose shows lemon, green apple, white flowers and citrus peel, and the palate is fresh and textured, closing on Verdicchio's signature bitter almond and a long saline finish. Serve at 10 to 12 degrees.