Famille Ricci Uitvlugt Exception 1989

A long-aged Uitvlugt from Famille Ricci, carrying a Port Mourant character and drawn from Guyana's heritage stock now run at Diamond. At 33 years it sits among the grand old Demeraras, the marque pointing to the oily, liquorice-driven PM recipe while the cabinet leans on its dependable mature profile rather than over-claiming the exact code.

Maturated from molasses and finished in port wood at 49.5%, it noses on pear, oak, vanilla and coffee, then turns dry and minty with liquorice and wood, the finish carrying coffee, black pepper and allspice. Almond, frangipane and apple crumble sit alongside leather, spice and a wisp of smoke. Unsweetened and at moderate cask strength, it offers the spicy, leathery maturity of old Port Mourant in a calmer, more contemplative package than the face-melting full-proof versions, best enjoyed neat with time.