Fabio Coullet Villazo 2022

Bodegas Fabio Coullet works in La Axarquia, east of Malaga, where vines cling to steep, rocky slopes in a style of farming known as heroic viticulture, everything tended by hand because machines cannot reach the terraces. The grape is Moscatel de Alejandria, an aromatic Muscat with a naturally perfumed character, here made in a dry style rather than the sweet wines the area is known for. Eleven months in oak barrels give the wine texture and a savoury frame, letting slow oxygen exchange through the wood round the palate while the barrel ageing carries the aromatics into a broader, more layered whole. The colour is deep straw with golden tints. The nose is markedly floral, led by jasmine and white flowers over ripe white peach, apricot and a twist of orange peel. The palate is dry and textured, the perfumed fruit held by fresh acidity with a gently honeyed, faintly nutty finish from the wood. Serve at 10 to 12 degrees in a white glass. It suits roast chicken, grilled pork and lightly spiced dishes where its aromatics come into their own.