Eulogio Pomares Maceración con Pieles 2023

Eulogio Pomares works in the Salnés Valley of Rías Baixas, the coastal cradle of Albariño in Galicia, and this is his skin-contact interpretation of the grape. Salnés is cool, damp and Atlantic, with vines grown on granite-derived sandy soils that give Albariño its saline drive and firm acidity. Where most Albariño is pressed straight off the skins, this wine is macerated on them, so the skin phenolics carry through into colour, texture and a gentle tannic grip that sets it apart. It then spends nine months in foudres, large old wooden vats that allow a slow, oxidative exchange of air without adding oak flavour, building further texture and a savoury, developed character. Expect a deep golden colour, a nose of peach and apricot with wildflowers, orange peel and a beeswax note, and a dry, textured palate where the skin grip and Atlantic acidity meet on a long, savoury finish. This is closer to an orange wine than a conventional white. Serve a touch warmer, at 11 to 13 degrees, in a larger glass.