Eulogio Pomares Castiñeiro Espadeiro 2023

Eulogio Pomares works in Ribadumia, in the Salnés Valley of Galicia, a maritime corner of Spain far better known for white Albariño than red wine. This bottling is a monovarietal of Espadeiro, an indigenous variety grown here on vines roughly 40 years old. The soils are alluvial and rich in organic matter over a granite bedrock, and the cool Atlantic climate keeps ripeness gentle, which shows in the low 12% alcohol. The grapes are destemmed and fermented in open oak barrels, then the wine spends six months in French oak, a light touch that frames the fruit rather than covering it. Espadeiro is naturally pale and high in acidity, and that carries through the glass. The colour is a bright translucent red. The nose is floral and fresh, with wild red berries, cherry, red currant and a note of rose, backed by a stony, earthy edge that reflects the granite. The palate is light bodied and lively, with fine tannin, a twist of black pepper and a clean saline finish. Serve at 14 to 16 degrees, and consider a light chill in summer. It suits roast poultry, duck and grilled river fish.