Estévez Bodegas y Viñedos Versos Mata los Pardos 2022

Estévez Bodegas y Viñedos farm old vineyards around Valtuille de Abajo in Bierzo, Castilla y León, land tied to the family's exiled forebear Antonio Estévez. Mata los Pardos is a single plot bottling of pure Mencía, the grape that defines the region. The soils here run to slate and quartzite over clay, giving a clear mineral line, while the altitude and the wide gap between warm days and cool nights preserve acidity and aromatic freshness at a moderate 13.5 percent. The wine ages twelve months in oak barrels, where a slow exchange of oxygen softens the tannins and brings the fruit and wood into balance without heavy toast. The colour is bright cherry red, the nose led by ripe fruits such as plum alongside red berries, with a savoury, slatey edge and hints of liquorice and dried herbs. The palate is medium bodied and fresh, with fine, supple tannin, a peppery lift and a clean, stony finish. Serve at 16 to 17 degrees after a short decant. It suits roast lamb, grilled beef and mushroom dishes.