Eremitas Paulo de Tebas 2021

Mateus Nicolau de Almeida works the Upper Douro from Vila Nova de Foz Coa, and this organic white is part of his Eremitas project, a set of three wines built around the native Rabigato grape. The Douro is a hot continental valley of schist, and Rabigato is prized here for holding its acidity where other varieties fade in the heat, which is what gives the wine its backbone. Fermentation and ageing take place in cement tank rather than wood, so there is no oak flavour or vanilla to cover the fruit. Cement holds a steady temperature and lets the wine settle on its fine lees while keeping its shape, adding a little texture and breadth to the middle without softening the acidity. The result is pale and bright, with lemon, green apple and white peach on the nose, a firm citrus and stone fruit palate, and a clean saline finish that reflects the schist soils. Serve it at around 9 to 10 degrees in a standard white glass.