Envidia Cochina Albariño 2024

Eladio Pineiro helped shape Rias Baixas as founder of Bodegas Mar de Frades before the appellation existed, and now makes small quantities under his own name in Galicia. Envidia Cochina is a young Albarino from this cool, wet, green corner of Atlantic Spain, where granite soils and constant sea influence give the grape its trademark bright acidity and salinity. The wine is fermented and held in stainless steel to keep the fruit clean and precise, then rested for six months on its fine lees. That lees contact, stirred through the ageing, releases mannoproteins from the spent yeast cells that broaden the mid palate and add a subtle creamy texture, while the steel keeps everything fresh and free of oak. The farming is biodynamic, and the aim is a wine of clear coastal character. It is pale with green tints, aromatic with lemon, white peach and green apple over a distinct sea salt note, and firm and dry on the palate with a long saline finish. Drink it young and well chilled at 8 to 10 degrees.