Engenhos do Norte Rum Agricola da North Natural

Engenhos do Norte distils on the island of Madeira, one of the few places outside the French islands legally entitled to the term rhum agricole. This North Natural is an unaged expression made from fresh-pressed sugarcane juice rather than molasses, bottled raw at full strength to show the spirit undressed.

The column still keeps the grassy, vegetal congeners in the cut, giving a green, herbaceous nose with green apple and an unmistakable alcoholic lift. At 60% the palate is powerful, running through grass, sugarcane and spice into a salty, honeyed, grass-streaked finish, with mineral notes coming through as it opens. This is intense, characterful white rum rather than an easy sipper, and the high proof is part of its appeal. A little water or a place in a robust cocktail will tame the heat without losing the cane.