Engenhos do Norte Rum Agrícola 980

This Rum Agricola 980 comes from Engenhos do Norte on Madeira, where cane-juice rum qualifies for the agricole term alongside the French islands. Distilled from fresh sugarcane juice on a column still and bottled at 40% with no age statement, it is a gentle, fruit-led expression rather than a powerhouse, a relaxed introduction to Madeiran cane rum.

The nose is notably fruity, leaning toward a prune-liqueur impression with citrus and dried fruit. The palate stays fruity and woody with a dry, tobacco-tinged edge, the prune and blackcurrant from the nose drier on the tongue, the finish on dried fruit, caramel and a short dry close. The entry carries a faint sweetness, though the added-sugar status is unstated and the rum reads dry overall. It can drink a touch watery at this strength. An easy, fruity digestif rather than a serious sipper, pleasant on its own after a meal.