Engenhos do Norte Branca Brut de Colonne 2022

Engenhos do Norte distils on Madeira from fresh sugar cane juice, on an island uniquely permitted outside the French territories to use the term rhum agricole. This Branca Brut de Colonne 2022, bottled by J. Faria and Filhos straight off the column, is an unaged white at an extraordinary 79.4%, about as raw and undiluted as rum comes.

At that strength the spirit is fierce and uncompromising, the nose alcoholic and intense over fresh sugarcane, the palate savoury with green olive, cane and an agricole bite, the finish peppery and mineral with citrus. Unsweetened, it is an overproof curiosity built more for blending, dosing a cocktail with raw cane character, or careful exploration than for neat sipping at full strength. One strictly for the adventurous and best approached with water, where the floral, vegetal heart of the cane can emerge from behind the heat.