Engenhos do Norte 970 Reserva

Engenhos do Norte makes rum on Madeira, one of the few places outside the French islands legally allowed to use the word agricole, from fresh-pressed sugar cane juice rather than molasses. This 970 Reserva is its six-year expression, matured and finished in Madeira casks that lean the profile toward soft, sweet richness.

The Madeira wood is the signature here: a nose of sweet caramel, honey and dried fruit over light vegetal cane, a palate that turns peppery with grass and dried fruit beneath the sweetness, and a finish of young wood, grass and more dried fruit. The cane character is present but dialled down, the whole thing soft and gentle at 40%. This is a relaxed, easygoing sipper and an approachable introduction to Madeira agricole rather than a dry, grassy purist's bottle.