Emilien Feneuil Coteaux Chamery Blanc Les Puits + Gillis 2019

Emilien Feneuil Coteaux Champenois Blanc Les Puits + Gillis is a still white made under the AOC Coteaux Champenois, from Chardonnay and the rare Petit Meslier grown around Chamery in Champagne. This is not a sparkling wine but a still expression of the region's fruit, farmed biodynamically. The vines sit on the chalk subsoil that defines Champagne, cool soil that drains freely, holds moisture in dry spells and gives the wine its taut acidity and mineral, saline line. Petit Meslier, an old local variety, adds extra freshness and acidity to the broader Chardonnay. The 2019 spends three years in oak barrels, a long élevage that works through slow oxygen exchange and extended lees contact to build texture, soften the naturally high acidity and layer in nutty, toasted depth. In the glass it is a bright golden colour, with green apple, lemon and quince on the nose moving into hazelnut, toasted bread, vanilla and beeswax from the wood. The palate is dry and firm, the oak richness held tight by chalk-driven acidity, closing long and stony. Serve at 11 to 13 degrees in a full white glass.