Elvio Cogno Barolo Cascina Nuova 2022

Barolo Cascina Nuova comes from Elvio Cogno, whose historic eighteenth-century estate sits on the Bricco Ravera hill in La Morra, in the western Barolo zone of Piedmont. It is made entirely from Nebbiolo, the late-ripening variety that defines Barolo and demands a long, cool autumn to reach full phenolic maturity. La Morra's calcareous marl soils, rich in clay and limestone, give Nebbiolo its perfume and a more approachable, elegant tannin than the firmer soils to the east. After fermentation the wine ages twenty-four months in large foudres rather than small barrels, so the oak stays in the background: the big-format wood allows gentle oxygen exchange that polishes Nebbiolo's substantial tannins and develops its aromatics without adding overt vanilla or toast. The colour is pale garnet, typical of the grape. The nose is fragrant and classic, with red cherry and raspberry over dried rose, liquorice, tar, tobacco and an earthy, savoury depth. The palate is medium bodied but firmly structured, with high acidity, fine drying tannins and a long, perfumed finish. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees in a large glass and decant. It suits braised beef, game, truffle and mushroom dishes and hard mountain cheeses.